Precision Right Angle Templet

I've got the hook set so I can use the long side of the rectangle. With 10" of hook and ample work/templet intimacy, you'll need only one clamp to hold the jig down. No matter how you clamp it, there's still plenty of real estate for the router to vacation on.

Closeup of templet balanced on narrow (2-1/2") stock. Setup is easier if you don't have to hold the jig down whilst referencing and clamping. The location of the templet can be read from the rule for consistency and accuracy; you needn't scribe lines. Note the hook work edge is offset x 1-1/8" from the edge of the templet. This design gets the cutter on track before it ever gets to the work.

The second half of the stub tenon was cut into the backup stock to eliminate edge tearout. Use a marking gage to locate the templet without measuring.

Here the corner of the material has been rounded using a bearing guided trimmer. If you always rout into the end grain this cut will never tearout. The pins on the alinement tool line up the long edge of templet with the work edge. Store your collar in the tool. One templet corner radius=1/2", the other is 3/4".

A step and repeat function is facilitated with the templet. The 1/2" brass bar is used to step the templet. The same process can be used to make dovetail comb templets. (More on this in "The Router Book", A Taunton Publication).

This through dovetail dado was cut into the backup stock for zero tearout/breakout. Butt the scrap up to the work, spring clamp in place then c-clamp for affirmity. Rout with impunity!

On occasion the Right Angle Templet can be used to set up other templets or components. By default the thicker MDF has its work edge square to the edge of the stock. Use 2 clamps to secure it; it will rotate without a hook.

For consistent cuttings with collars don't rotate the router. To expedite, pull the collar against the templet and keep the offset subbase grip knob on a straight glide path as you rout. I begin the cut with the straight section of the subbase parallel to the edge of the templet.

The templet can be used as a cross-cut jig on the band saw. The edge of the templet (3/8" thick) is guided against the 1/4" thick acrylic fence. I cut aluminum bar stock on it and anything else I can get on the table. Place 3/8" scrap MDF under the work for support.

Product is tuned and both ends squared to <.0008"/length and verified on day of shipment. An offset subbase, 1" collar & nut, The Templet, an alinement tool, and freight (S&H) total 99$; the perfect gift for you or your woodworking pal.

Most routing of any consequence usually requires some fixturing of the work and a platform for the router. This simple right angle templet is one example. The edge ground aluminum "hook" under the templet instantly renders both ends of the jig square to the edge of the work; one clamp holds it firmly in place. This design facilitates across-the-grain templet collar and precision bearing-guided end cuts, its principle application. You can also use the product for jig and templet setup, marking, knifing and all routing at right angles to the reference edge of the work. The 2 corners opposite the hook edge of the templet are quarter radiused to 1/2" and 3/4". When the tool is upside down and registered to the corner of the work it can be used as a corner radius templet for tabletops, stair treads, door lids, children's play surfaces and other sharp cornered components. An edge guide (supplied) alinement accessory simplifies its registration.

Most of the platform is uncluttered play ground for the router. Moreover, there is often room to clamp backup stock against the work to prevent tear out on exit cuts. Because of its squareness and intimacy with the work you can easily use it to square up other templets and fixturing. It is ideal for those precision jig/fixture platform and component cuts where the table saw is "suspect" or the saw blade intolerant of the material. Everyday saw blades don't cotton to aluminum, Garolite, Lexan, and Lucite but router bits can handle these materials. I used a prototype of the jig to rout the plate and drill masters and square the ends of the aluminum bar stock. I also use the templet as a carriage for cross cuts on the band saw.

When used with collar guides and an offset subbase, expect facility with ordinary cross cuts like dado and dovetail ways. Since the work edge of the hook is offset by a 1-1/8" the cutter is on its pathway a 1-1/8" before it enters the work. The setup is just as provocative. The center of the cutter pathway, using a 1" O.D. collar e.g., is read straight from the scale (ruler) obviating the need for scribe lines. Butt the end of the scale against the templet and read it at the end of the work. The center of the cut will reside on the work at 1/2" less than the measurement. This is independent of the cutter diameter too. Moreover, routing on the templet above the chip fray (and bumpy surface tear out) results in cleaner and more consistent cuts.

My right angle templet is a precision tool made (by me) from phenolic laminate and thick aluminum bar stock. Both ends of the templet have been machined and are squared to the hook (3/8" thick x 1-1/2" aluminum bar stock). Squareness is better than .0008"/length and as such, it can be used as your squareness standard for all but rocket ship and racing motor applications. The platform (8-5/8" x 10-1/4") has been drilled to receive the hook on either face or on one end for longer cuts along the 10-1/4" length. It is insensitive to temperatures in the woodworking environment and water and solvent won't touch it.

The materials are durable and sympathize with one another. The 10" long hook provides substantial intimacy with the work edge while stiffening the platform. The platform is industrial strength XX 3/8" Black Garolite and wears like ironbark end grain. The product is so weighted that it will balance on narrow (2-1/2") stock and thus obviate the need for that "third hand" whilst searching for a clamp.

The bar stock button head cap screws do reside (centered) in sloppy holes and there is about +or-.006" of adjustment possible. Notwithstanding, it will take you more than 400 pounds to dislodge the bar once it's tightened down so don't expect to have to adjust its squareness too often. The slop is there to allow some remachining and re-squaring. If you bash or booger the bar or ding a templet edge there will be some margin for recalibration without major surgery.

The templet can be used with bearings or collars. Collars allow the use of cheaper unpiloted cutters with essentially no depth of cut limitations but diameters are restricted to ~1". The collar (guide bush) system does suffer from eccentricity problems but with an offset subbase it is easy (and required) to keep the same point of the collar on the templet for the whole trip across the work. Shank bearing guided cutters are usually too long for inside cuts but can and should be used for full thickness edge or end cuts. A table top corner radius for example should be done with a shank bearing piloted cutter. Bearing guided cutters are always centered to their bearings and copy their patterns precisely. Router work should be fun; with this tool it will be fun and more predictable.

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